My goodness, this default color highlighting for IntelliJ is blinding. How can I change this?

You modify the Kotlin colour highlighting the same way you do for any other syntax highlighting. You'll find it under Preferences > Colors & Fonts > Kotlin.
The item you want is Property with backing field. Note however that KT-6765 is a bug I found where the foreground colour is not respected unless you also set a background colour. Therefore, to change it, make sure you set both a foreground and a background colour as shown below:

Personally I opted for a dark background that roughly approximated the Darcula default background.
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